Thursday, November 21, 2013

Heil, Y'all!

Rob arrived late to the job interview. He’d planned his day to get there on time, but things had kept piling up between him and the time of his appointment. By the time he’d found the address, narrowly avoiding a light pole as he Google-Mapped and biked at the same time, he was breathless.

“Hi, I’m here to see...um, Jean. From the production department. Is this, uh, do I have the right place? Is this Melge?” he asked, still panting a bit from the stairs. Of course the place wouldn’t have an elevator or air-conditioning.

“Yup, you’re in the right place. The perfect place actually. Have a seat and Jean will be out in a few minutes.”

Rob stared down a beanbag, wondering whether it would hold him.

“So, like, right here is okay?”

“Yup!”

Someone was playing gangster rap but Rob couldn’t tell if the music was coming from inside or outside the building. It was one of those reclaimed spaces -- with exposed brick and all that. Really quite nice.

“Beautiful day today, isn’t it?” Rob remarked to the woman behind the desk.

“Yeah. I haven’t been outside much today, but it looks nice from in here. I guess.”

Heels began clomping from behind a door and out stepped a slender woman dressed in a baggy Iggy Pop T-Shirt and jeans.

“Rob?”

“Are you Jean?”

“Yeah. Hi, there,” she said, reaching in for a frail handshake.

“Why don’t you come in?”

She ushered him through a door and into a hall lined with wooden desks and iMacs.

“This is sales.”

“Oh,” Rob said. “Nice.”

“They’re miserable today,” she said, pointing a finger out the window as they walked through another door and past a moose head adorned with a tiara and mardi gras beads.

“And here’s editorial,” Jean said, sweeping her pointer finger around the room. They’d reached the end of the hall; it wasn’t that long.

Out of the corner of his eye, Rob could see someone photoshopping a woman wearing a thong. He could also hear the sound of leaves rustling as someone moaned.

Jean turned around and looked at Rob directly in the eyes.

“They’re working on a documentary about this drug that makes you want to have sex with trees.”

“Cool,” Rob said.

“I should have made you sign an NDA before I said that. Anyway, this is my desk. You can sit here." Jean pointed at a 70’s office desk plastered with rock club stickers. 

“So, as we wrote on Craigslist, we’re looking for someone on a freelance basis.”

“I know. That’s perfect for my situation.”

“Okay cool. So, before we get going, I have to say that we can’t actually pay you.”

“What?”

“Well, we can offer you revenue-sharing, based on traffic. You know how that goes right?”  

“Aren’t you, like, a billion dollar company?”

“Exactly. We look great on resumes.”

“Um. Okay. So how lucrative is this revenue-sharing model?”

“Well it depends. Did you see our video about the woman with the largest butt in Senegal?”
“I think.”  

“Our cinematographer made $10,000 from that.”

“Wow.”

“Exactly. Sky’s the limit!”

Jean opened a bottle of Club Mate and brought it to her lips.

“What about some of the meatier documentaries. Like that one about rebels in the Congo?”

“That didn’t get as many views. But Russian prostitutes did well.”

“I see.”

“So, our attitude is kind of like, If you’re great at what you do, you’ll be rewarded. If not...’”

“Right.”

“You will also have to interact with our commenters.”

“Okay cool.”

“So I’m not sure how familiar you are with our editorial voice, but basically imagine as if you’re Werner Herzog but plastered. Possibly on acid.”

“What if I don’t do drugs?”

“Just use your imagination. It's not that hard.”

“Okay. Well, I’m super flattered you’ve invited me here.”

“Of course. We loved your piece on that transexual singer...what was her name again?”

“Pepto Abysmal?”

“Right. What a trainwreck. ”

“Thank you so much.”

Jean’s phone buzzed. “Shut up shut up shut up.”

“Is everything okay?”

“I’m really impressed by you, Rob. I think you’ll make a great addition to the team. You’re not like all the other Berlin artist waifs we’ve been interviewing. Would you like to sign the Non-Disclosure Agreement now so I can give you details about your first assignment?” 
  
“Okay, sure. Let’s do it.”

Jean slipped him a piece of paper filled with German.

“I’m not proficient. I probably should have told you that before.

“Of course you’re not. You’re an American in Berlin. Just sign it,” Jean said.

“Okay,” Rob said. He was starting to feel like he would do anything Jean said. If she had asked him to get naked and fuck her on the desk, he would have obliged.

“Great,” she said, after he’d finished signing the NDA. “Now I can tell you about your first assignment. It’s about gay Nazis.”

“Gay Nazis.”

“Right. They’re out there. We want to meet them. Infiltrate their world, make friends with bouncers, and start filming inside of the bars and sex clubs where they meet.”

“You want me to film inside gay sex clubs?”

“Mark, we’ve filmed Columbia’s most notorious drug gangs. We released the infamous Vladimir Putin sex tape. This is not going to be a problem. We’ll provide you with security.” 

“Okay. After this, can I pick my next assignment?”

“We’ll see what kind of tape you get,” Jean lit a cigarette. “Let me be straight with you: It’s going to be tough. Germans hate being filmed. They’re scared of Google and Mark Zuckerberg, too. Bunch of paranoid pansies, if you ask me.”

She exhaled into Rob’s face. Rob noted that her breath smelled sweet and noxious, like a dragon who’d accidentally swallowed a Menthos.  

“When do I start?”   

“Soon as possible.”

“Well, uh, danke. For the opportunity, I mean.”

Jean stubbed her cigarette in between a pair of porcelain breasts.

“You don’t have to pretend to be the nice American here, Rob. We’re not your commie roommates. We’re, as you said, a billion dollar company.”

“Right.”

“I suppose I should introduce you to the team, then.”

Jean rose abruptly and motioned for Rob to get up as well. He noticed that she was missing a middle finger on her right hand, which looked a bit like an optical illusion.

“What?”

“Nothing.”

“Not nothing. You just looked like you were about to faint.”

Rob breathed in sharply.

“I know your type, Rob. You look at my finger and think about dying because you’re a hypochondriac. You’re trying to figure out how it happened: if I took drugs, if I cut it off, if I’m an extreme sports kind of person. You’re probably judging me. But you know what? Go ahead. I’m not ashamed of my nub. Because it allows me to see the truth in other people. Because when people look at it, I can see all of their insecurities.”

Jean stared into Rob’s face with the intensity of a judgmental elderly lady on an U-Bahn train.

“Are you on Facebook?”she asked.

“Yeah.”

Jean typed something on her keyboard then looked up.

“I can’t find you. Don’t tell me you’re trying so hard to be German you’ve devised some unfortunate pseudonym like ‘Barry Brandenburg.’”

“No, I should be on there. Robert Delancey.”

“Okay. Added. I’m going to send you a link to a group. Don’t join it under your name, of course, but you’re going to scope it out for us. Have you heard of a Nazi fashion brand called Thor Steiner?”  

“Never.”  

“Check it out.”

Jean twisted her computer around to show Robert a picture of a slender blond women with a ponytail stepping into a BMW. The name “Steiner” was bejeweled in Gothic font across her white tank top.  

“Those are some flashy threads. She looks like a Czech Hooker.”

“They’ve rebranded. Now they’re trying to go for a more sleek and stylish look; Zara for young, urban, twenty-something Hitlerites.”

“How do you know they’re a Nazi brand?”

“Well, of course all explicit Third Reich iconography was banned in Germany after the war, so Steinar uses coded references like the number 18 and 88 for Hitler and an eagle for German pride. They’re also devised a sleeve that conveniently stiffens when the wearer raises their hand to eye level. Anyway, I have a tip from a very good friend that some in the bear community have been spotted wearing this shirt.”

Jean pointed at a blonde man wearing a shirt which read “Nordland” above a Norweigan flag. He looked suspiciously like an Abercrombie model.

“Bears?”  

“Yes, Robert, bears, as in: hairy gay men. How long have you been living here again?”

“Seven months.”

“Jesus Christ. Anyway. It’s clothing signifiers like these that’ll help you spot a supremacist. We need you to wear the Thor Steiner so that the people we want you to meet will approach you rather than the other way around.”

“Say what now?”

“Don’t worry, you won’t have to risk your life by wearing anything around Kreuzberg. Just buy the sweatshirt online and save it for the night of your assignment.”

“Isn’t there an easier way to do this? There’s gotta be like an OKCupid for Jew-haters or something.”

“No, we need the footage. We want to know everything about these men: what they eat, what they watch, where they go out. Maybe one of them has a secret affinity for Seinfeld. Accidental hypocrites are the best.”

Jean motioned for Robert to move.

“You should be thankful we’re giving you an assignment. Most of our freelancers have to pitch everything they create for us.”

Jean and Robert walked down a second hallway, this one stubbed with gum like stucco.

“This is Ira,” Jean said pointing to a man with Jesus hair.

“Sup,” Ira said. “‘Where you from?”

“Get back to work Ira. You guys can sniff each other’s butts later.”

“Wait,” Rob said. “There’s something I still don’t understand. Gays were persecuted in the Holocaust, too. Why would a gay German today identify with Nazis?”

“Why do people hate? Why are there wars? I don’t care. Do you realize how many lazy readers skip over content until they find the word Nazi? It’s basically the Daily Telegraph’s entire M.O. At least we have a unique angle.”

“I hung out with a bunch of Neo-Nazis once. Fuckin’ crazy bastards in Moscow. They almost got me banned from the country --- super long story,” Ian said.

“Ian, stop. Just...stop,” Jean said, then turned to Rob and whispered “Ian’s a compulsive liar.”

“I heard that. Don’t listen to her, Rob.” Ian leaned in close to Rob’s face. “Dude. Be careful here. I’m getting followed by a drone because of a story I wrote about Israel the other day. Could’ve spotted that little fucker in the sky from a mile away. It was either that or...a bird.”  

“That’s....terrifying. Do I get a desk, Jean?”

“Freelancers don’t get desks!”

“We all exist in the cloud! We’re practically dead.”

“Truer words,” Jean replied. “Now if you two don’t mind, I’m going to just leave. Like now. So bye, welcome to the team, blah blah blah, don’t fuck this up for us.” Jean walked out of the room.

“Rob, was it? Jean told me you studied Anthropology.” Ian said the word “Anthropology” in a seductive Latin American accent.

“Yeah, mainly primates.”

“Whatever, I have a sociocultural question for you. Check out my former boss’s LinkedIn profile here...eyebrows raised, squinting into the distance, dangling sunglasses from his hand like the world’s biggest douche. Looking at that face makes me want to implode my former office with explosives, Fight Club-style. Ha ha. So my question is, why do I visit his profile so often? Is it the satisfaction I get from realizing I’ll never be forced to interact with him again? Or is he still somehow haunting my subconscious?”

“I’m not sure but I am always visiting the Facebook profiles of people I vaguely pity.”

“Right? WHY DO WE DO THAT? Someone should really write a story about that.”
“I’m pretty sure someone has.”

“Maybe they have. I don’t read any American media. Just stories ABOUT America. Gives a more honest perspective, you know?”

“Yeah, sure.”

“What do you read?”

“What? Oh, lots of things. Sorry, I’m still processing what Jean just told me to do.”

“Processing? Don’t be a lesbian Rob, ha ha. See this?” Ian suddenly adopted a grave look and pointed at his temple. “It’s meant for the doing.”

“I see.”

“I’m going to tell you a little story now about the doing. It involves mescaline, ketamine, Berghain and feeling like you are climbing THROUGH an LED light.”

“What is ketamine, exactly? I mean, I've heard of it but...”  

“Only the ball trippingest confidence booster ever. It makes you feel positively supreme. Why don’t you know about Ketamine? Don’t tell me you came to Berlin because of a job or to ‘learn German.’”

“No, I came here on a short fellowship but my funding ran out a month ago.”

“I knew it! Oh man. I KNEW it. You’re one of those expats.”

“What expats?”

“You’re not here for la vie boheme. You’re not even here to experience the cultural moment that is Berlin in 2013. You probably have no appreciation for this beautiful yet tragic city’s heady mix of international arts and culture.”

“That’s not true. Last night I saw a modern dance performance where a Korean girl stomped in a circle of mud for an hour and a half.”

“That’s nothing,” Ian said, sighing. “You wouldn’t believe the parties I went to here in the 90’s. Christ, you know Berlin is getting soft when academics move here to have a safe, quiet, professional life.”  

“Next you’re going to tell me that Berlin is over.”

“Berlin has been over, you’re the final nail in the coffin. Anyway, what are we working on today?”

“Some story about gay Nazis.”

“Oh heil no.”

“Oh heil yes."

....TO BE CONTINUED!



Friday, July 26, 2013

And Remember Never to Smile



In Germany, Wal-Mart stopped requiring sales clerks to smile at customers — a practice that some male shoppers interpreted as flirting — and scrapped the morning Wal-Mart chant by staff members. 

“People found these things strange; Germans just don’t behave that way,” said Hans-Martin Poschmann, the secretary of the Verdi union, which represents 5,000 Wal-Mart employees here.

-Wal-Mart Finds That Its Formula Doesn’t Fit Every Culture, New York Times, August 2, 2006

Hello my beautiful babies. As you may have surmised from my face, I am not in a particularly jovial mood today. While our southern fried chicken has been selling quite well among the nostalgic American expats in Prenzlauerberg, we've run into a bit of a snafu -- and it has nothing to do with owner Joe's unfortunate press statements in support of Paula Deen. No, no...we've been receiving complaints from customers who have been just a tad bit stressed, some might say "aggrieved," by our customer service. I received this hand-written note in the mailbox today:

To whom it may concern,

Hello, my name is Markus and I visited your establishment a few weeks ago. I love southern food and have always wanted to make the road trip across U.S. to visit all those places where they eat that. Unfortunately, I felt very alienated by your disingenuous servers. For example, the waitress smiled at me before I had even left her a tip. Why? What did I do to deserve such a smile? I have not given her love, money, protection or a home. I do not trust people who smile unwarranted.

Grüße,

Markus

Kittens, what have I said about unwarranted smiles? Let's say it in unison:

It freaks Germans out.

We must let go of excessive niceties like saying "hi", asking folks how they are doing or acknowledging their presence with even so much as a nod.

Remember what I told you in May? Customers are nothing but walking, talking pieces of poo rolled in money. People in Berlin expect the brutal truth, like something you'd hear from an alcoholic, yet truthful, Mom: "You are fat, ugly and probably at the low-end of the Autism spectrum."

At the very least, we must strive to be as unhelpful as possible. For example, if some poor soul asks you what the difference between a large and a small drink is, simply sigh, look at the ceiling and say, "One is small, the other is large." If they keep pestering you, yell at them loudly to fuck off.

Think like a local, to whom capitalism is just another fad that is currently having its day in the sun. Those stupid tourists, they think, they're invading our stores like a plague of locusts! They're turning Berlin into some stupid Stasi-themed amusement park! How dare they expect good service just because they're paying for something.

I hope you all realize that treating our customers like they are the worst thing that has ever happened to us is absolutely imperative if we want to have a successful business in Berlin.

Thank you and get back to not doing work!

Monday, July 22, 2013

On Writing for Free

I've officially been a freelance writer without any full-time client for two weeks. After being fortunate enough to land some great assignments, I've found myself in a slump. Over the past few days, I've sent more than a dozen pitches to magazines I like, but none have offered me anything definite. 

So, today, I considered turning to the dark side: Elance.com.

If you aren't familiar with Elance, allow me to give you a brief synopsis: they suck. The work on the site is...demeaning. Insulting. The website throws virtual poo at me every time I look at it.

Here's an Elance job offer that was just sent to me. 


Budget: $20 - $55 
20 Page report on Atkins diet Recipes: Breakfast, Appetizers, Lunch Dinner and Dessert.
I am looking for a writer to write no less than a 20 page on the topic of Atkins diet
 
Recipes: Breakfast, Appetizers, Lunch Dinner and Dessert. 
(I will supply you with samples of similar content and specific topics to cover within the report once I select you). 
PLEASE NOTE that I looking for a writer to work with LONG TERM and will need you to also write other reports in the very near future providing your work is of quality material and your price per report is reasonable. 
PLAGIARISM WILL NOT BE TOLERATED! 
All material must be original content, my staff will check and any material found to be plagiarized will be reported to the proper authorities and not paid for! 
Please keep in mind that I do require the following from you; 
By accepting this job, you agree that you you will own no rights to and that your name will appear nowhere on or within the report/biography and I will own all the rights including resell and distribution rights. 
....
Note: Please respond to this personally with an attached sample of your writing or your application will be deleted without review. 
Submit 20 pages on the Atkins diet for a little more than a buck a page to an editor who type-yells? Now that's what I call opportunity! 

Oh, and it's a ghost-writing gig so forget about adding it to your writing samples.

There are other, better, opportunities on Elance, but most come with a catch (ie, they are great assignments but don't actually pay). 

Elance lays bare the economics of the written English word, and it turns out the written English word is worth a third of a cent. Whichever assignment you apply for, you can also be assured there are twenty other applicants from India, Sri Lanka, China or Malaysia who can write for less money than you and are probably quicker, too. 

Over at Demand Media, you could work yourself to the bone (and possibly the psych ward), trying to make a living wage. 

So, I've been endlessly turning over a question in my head: when no editors are responding, why not write for free?

The stress of writing on deadline for some anonymous jerk online would inevitably make me crave a chocolate bar, a massage and some new bubble bath anyway, and that money isn't going to magically grow on the dying house plant which sits next to my computer. 

So, instead of hustling endlessly, I think it makes more sense to spend my down time (when I'm not pitching) writing for myself, $0 per word. 

I used to love writing for free. My blog was my release, and I poured everything into it. It didn't get me much of anywhere career-wise, but writing for an (albeit small) audience every day made me a more authentic person, a better risk-taker and guided me towards my true(r) writing style.  

Then I began taking myself too seriously to do it anymore, which was a stupid choice.

So, what I guess I'm trying to say is: hello, world. I'm so glad I'm not being paid to talk to you. I hope I can do it for a long, long time. I'll gladly make my own lunch. 

Monday, July 8, 2013

Welcome to Pastoriala!

 
This will soon be you! (© CNN.com)
Welcome to Pastoriala, Kreuzköln's hottest co-working space! We're super stoked you've come to create / code / rock OUT in our converted grain silo. Since no gmos were used in the 1910’s, you can practically feel the retro bio vibes!

We're a dynamic, innovative group of artists, devs, guerilla gardeners, party promoters, wedding video editors, Polish language instructors, amateur clowns, illusionists and curators. We're all about collaboration here, so please join our Facebook group so we can send you emails every few hours about our friends who are looking for apartments in Berlin this Summer.

I see you've signed up for FLEX membership, which allows you unlimited use of the first and second floors of our collective between the hours of 9am- 5pm, Monday through Friday -- except next Tuesday through Friday, when we'll be hanging 500 pairs of sweatpants from the ceiling of both floors. Here’s the accompanying description by Choi Anderson, resident artist and hella dope philosopher:

Materials: Sweatpants.
Artist’s Statement: Sweatpants represent the alienation and loneliness inherent in our existence. Their comfort lulls us into a false sense of security (much like the capitalist system) while rendering mobility impossible. By hanging sweatpants collected from the homes of Hartz IV recipients, my piece explores the in / visible nature of so-called "uggo," "fast-track-to-depression" apparel. 

Thanks Choi -- you are our spirit animal.

We also serve fresh, organic food on the first floor of the collective every day between 9am and 2pm. After 2pm, if you ask for food we'll stare at you blankly, sigh, and say, "I guess I can try to find you something. Do you like lentils?"  Either eat the lentils or go away.

Occasionally, journalists from design mags may peek out from behind the silo doors and snap a few shots while you’re working. Please be a dude and close any windows devoted to porn and save it for later in the day when there's just one other person in the room who can totally see your screen but doesn't know what to do about it. That’s the Pastoriala way.

Collaboration might sound intimidating, like “Woah, I don’t want anyone touching my fixie.” But it could be something small, like sending out affirming vibes to a blocked creative or sharing your Club Mate Cola with a stranger. If you'd like to collaborate in a more substantial way, come sit at the vintage table in the corner of the cafe tomorrow morning and we can talk about such diverse topics as bike-powered toaster ovens and rooftop animal husbandry.

This week, we'll be featuring a performance from EEEEEEHHHHHAOOOOOUUUUUUHHH, who specializes in melodic yelling. You can also enter the sound massage room and get a shiatsu from Enya and co. Hungry? We're hosting a completely biodegradable dinner featuring Japanese plates made of weaved grass and dirt. Finally, you're not going to want to miss Death Metal Yoga. See how long you can hold downward dog while we blast Ramstein as loud as we can and play an endless loop of barnyard construction noises.

We can’t guarantee you’ll be able to concentrate, but fuck your capitalistic ethos anyway. This is ART we’re talking about.

Namaste,

Dana Deanson,
Head Curator, Collaborative Director of Pastoriala

Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Let's Be Strangers in Berlin

For weeks I've been stuck in a daily grind, and what's strange about being in such a grind is that, even though things are happening --very notable, interesting things -- they're happening within the context (or rather, confines) of routine, daily life. It doesn't seem as if there's ever a moment to take a step back, breathe, and see things as they are.

Tonight, while walking home from a workshop I've been teaching, I had such a moment of quiet and reflection. It didn't last nearly as long as I wanted, but it was just what I needed. I was walking down the street with my boyfriend, and I suddenly demanded that we walk in silence, as if we were participating in one of those weekend Buddhist retreats all of those stressed-out yuppies crow over.

I was walking along the same path I normally take home, but I wasn't listening to one of my many podcasts or attempting to make conversation with my boyfriend even though I was exhausted. Instead, I was swimming in the details of the things around me: all the little ways this seemingly familiar stretch of land remained alien and unfathomable to me.

It had stormed that day and the trees were still wet. The air felt lush and tropical. I noticed bits of street art that hadn't ever caught my eye before: a stick figure carrying the bar in a "Do Not Enter" sign; a poster advertising Barbie's Playhouse torn to shreds with the sticker "Sexistische Kacksheisse" covering Barbie's eyes; a piece of graffiti which read "LTRL WAFFLES."

There was a rounded, Bauhaus corner to a building I'd never noticed. In the driveway, a BMW sat next to a billboard with an image of a woman cowering behind a skeleton: an advertisement for the next album from "Queens from the Stone Age." Nearby was a strange half-street in which cars weren't allowed. It was filled with cobblestones criss-crossed by a bike path and struck me as exactly the kind of street American Republicans probably associate with this continent: poorly-designed, public in an aggressive sort of way, probably funded by high taxes and useful to almost no one.

The vague smell of industrial cleaner one associates with Porta Potties wafted towards me from a nearby construction site. The Caterpillars there were poised to scoop fresh earth, but they hung still and silent like a row of flamingos. The gutted buildings looked sinister and apocalyptic.

I've always craved the sensory overload traveling provides and I've found the feeling hard to recreate in my new hometown. This walk, however, restored my faith in silence, and it made Berlin seem like the same strange, alien world I had encountered when I first landed here.

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

6 Totally Un-Marxist Thoughts on May Day

Let's marvel at these merry Marxists.

May Day is a very important day -- for drinking.

Maypril fools! May 1st is actually a historic public holiday that means a lot to many people.

In the Rhineland region of Germany, May 1st is a time of Paegan revelry. A small pine tree atop a Maypole is traditionally set up in a town's public square or village green to symbolize Spring. If you want to show someone you dislike them, you can also bring them a tree covered in white streamers. Because nothing says "I hate you" like a costly gift.   

Berlin's May 1st ritual is a bit more complicated than that of Paegan lore. This has traditionally been a day when lefty types throw Becks bottles at cops dressed in riot gear. The protestors' reasons are diverse: some are protesting the German "police state," while others are protesting war and capitalism. According to a man named Bill who leads a May Day tour around Kreuzberg: "It's all about the fact that capitalism is bullshit, and we're against the system." Yeah man, fuck that! (Seriously though, how much should I tip you?)

Naturally, I feel a lot of pressure on May 1st to join in solidarity with the cause. But it's hard. What follows are the incredibly un-Marxist thoughts I had whilst wandering around Kotti with a Club Mate: 

1. I wonder where that dude driving a recumbent bike died his mohawk green and if the drapes match the pubes. Is that how the expression goes? I'm disgusting. 



2. These policemen are hot. Is there some kind of May Day bondage event today? Is it expensive? The gay lifestyle is completely unaffordable. We should be protesting this.  

3. Honestly, I'm thankful there's some extra security here after what happened in Boston. These people are drunk and one of them just walked up to a police officer and adjusted his hat. That's a lot of Chutzpah.  



4. The McDonald's on Skalitzer is totally packed right now. You traitors should be ashamed of yourselves.

5. If I suddenly have a panic attack, it's going to take ages for the ambulance to get through this dense crowd. 



6. Let's be real folks: you're just excited you can litter and pee on the street today. That's what this is really about. 

Monday, April 29, 2013

Spring is Fucking with All of Us




Spring is arriving sporadically in Berlin, like a performer who only sometimes remembers her cues. There's great anticipation, but crappy execution. Oh, Berlin, what a commitment-phobe you are. Seriously, you're worse than the guys on GayRomeo. 

All the fluctuations are making me feel out of step with the world around me. Yesterday, I barely registered a skinhead at Alexanderplatz. He was wearing those giant leather boots and all I could think about was how I needed new clothes. That's how out of it I am. I am like that woman in the Clariton commercial before the soft-focus is peeled away. I know there are real things around me, but all I see are blobs.

The trash is slowly being cleared from empty concrete ponds in the park near my house, which is just drawing attention to how much trash is still in them. At some point, there will be water and lilipads and maybe even a happy frog or two but right now there's just a soggy pizza box and a bunch of cigarette butts.

Before I moved to Siberia, I barely registered the weather. Seattle has two seasons:  drizzly and overcast, and sunny and 70. Berlin is a whore with mood-swings and a violent temper in comparison.

Spring is a state of mind that I relish. I want to feel like a fresh young daffodil in the morning dew or a productive baby chicken. I'm waiting for the newness and freshness to wash over me like a Mentos commercial. All my thoughts will be so different then. I can't wait.

Monday, April 1, 2013

It's This Jew in a Box


Ido Porat, an Israeli, is the first to answer questions from the "Box."

The Jew in the Box” is not here.  “Today is Shabbat, I’ll be back on Sunday,” reads a notice taped near where he usually sits. I consider sitting down on the purple chaise and fielding questions myself. “Oh my favorite young Jewish actress? Lena Dunham, of course!” I’d say. Then whomever had asked me the question would gab with me about how dark the series has become. “Such a shonda,” I’d lament. “But the girl’s got some real chutzpah.” 

Of course, that’s not how it would really go down in Deutschland. First off, a German person would probably be like “What is a Lena Dunham?” (“Girls” hasn’t really taken off here). Then they’d want to  get my take on Netanyahu and the new Israeli government. “Is there really going to be a war with Iran?” is the question I’ve been asked the most in the three years I’ve lived here, usually in such an earnest way that I can’t help but try to formulate some kind of response.

But, really, how the hell am I supposed to know? This is the problem: I cannot speak on behalf of all Jews, much less the current Israeli government. It’s not like I’m Bibi’s bestie. This is why having a real-life spokesJew fielding any and all questions from a glassed-in podium is so important: he’s doing the dirty work. Now I won’t have to be anyone’s “first Jew.” I can be the second! What a relief. 

Not all of the questions are answered admirably.

The truth is that, when you get over the outrageousness of their executions, the ideas behind the Jewish Museum Berlin’s exhibition “The Whole Truth: Everything You Wanted to Know About Jews” are pretty progressive. Many outraged journalists have been quoting Stephen Kramer, General Secretary of the Central Council of Jews in Germany, who told the AP: "Why don't they give him [the Jew in the box] a banana and a glass of water, turn up the heat and make the Jew feel really cozy in his glass box?” But Kramer doesn’t get it. Never mind the fact that this is an exhibition curated by Jewish German people or that the glass box is actually a podium surrounded by glass on two sides.  The whole point of it is to symbolize what it’s like being the perennial spokesJew in Germany. It is, indeed, like living in a fishbowl. 

The rest of the exhibit isn’t bad, either. At “The Whole Truth,” visitors not only can ask a real-life Jewish person any question under the sun (from “what do I bring to a Shabbat dinner?” to “What is that rectangular box next to my Jewish neighbor’s door?”) but they can also find answers to some of the most common questions recorded in the Jewish Museum’s guestbook. These questions range from “Are all Jews religious?” to “Can you make jokes about the Holocaust?”

Visitors watching the Sarah Silverman Show
To answer the second question, the Museum hands the mic to Sarah Silverman. The episode of the Sarah Silverman Show where Sarah opens a hyper-capitalistic Holocaust memorial (featuring tigers, a bikini-clad “sexy Hitler” and a giant golden nose shpritzing water) is playing on repeat. “Auschwitz? I’ll have you saying Wowschwitz,” Silverman deadpans to the camera. Two German teens laugh, but the 40-something man who watches the video after them does not. 

It’s a bizarre sight, especially when you think about the context in which the video is playing. According to polls, 45% of Germans think Jews still “talk to much about what happened to them during the Holocaust.” In the time I’ve spent in Germany, the anti-Semitism I’ve experienced the most has been from Germans who were sick of talking about the Holocaust, or those who’ve tried to convince me that the Jews were the ones who wouldn’t let it go. Is it good that Germans can now laugh along with Silverman at the culture of memorialization? 

In another room, visitors are encouraged to drop plastic coins in three of five semi-translucent pillars, each one representing a positive Jewish attribute: do visitors think Jews are “business savvy?” What about “kind to animals?” “Beautiful?” “Influential?” “Intelligent?”

Visitors place plastic coins in pillars based on the
Jewish attributes they find most prevalent. 
If Germany were a country that had mostly rid itself of anti-semitism, I would probably have felt more comfortable seeing how many people see Jews as “business-savvy,” but given that a good 16% of Germans think Jews have “too much power in Germany,” it doesn’t really seem like a compliment. 

No, this isn’t the United States. There isn’t a whole ton of awareness here about how far Jewish stereotypes are from reality. But that’s why this exhibition is so important; it holds a mirror to society at large and encourages the public to look at their misconceptions with a bit of humor. While it may not seem especially politically correct to have a spokesJew sitting on a bench near the exit, the metaphor you’re searching for isn’t “Eichmann in Jerusalem” but Larry David at a Christmas party. Because that’s what it’s like being a Jew in Germany almost every day. 

If you really want to get freaked out, just imagine a country where the only dialogue related to Jews is about responsibility for the Holocaust, the conflict between Israel and the Palestinians and how to combat anti-Semitism in the far right wing. That’s scary, because it misses all the messiness and wonder of contemporary Jewish life. If you have to be outrageous to change the conversation, maybe it’s a sign that the conversation has veered somewhere very, very limiting. Hopefully, this little exhibition will widen the scope of what Germans talk about when they talk about Jewish people.  

Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Eilat



Aqaba, Jordan glitters in the Dead Sea. The water looks like oil bubbling in a frying pan. A faint row of silver lights hovers in the mountains above the city, like an alien space ship too afraid to land. 

Hebrew words are being spoke in a sing-songy intonation. Someone is having a playful fight. Light family drama, from what I can tell. A comedy of (no) manners.

The electric hum of a passing golf cart interrupts the conversation. Resort patrons must be taken to their rooms in the utmost of comfort. A cat darts from corner to corner, rubbing herself against anything she can find, as if modeling. A woman coughs. 

My hands stings from chlorine. I'm reminded of all of the pools in which I've lounged today, trying to not think about what I'm leaving and what's going to happen next. If my thoughts listened to the scent, they would take an anti-depressant. This is the scent of waterslides, of manufactured aquatic entertainment, of leisure industries.

There's a thought about work, delete it. Press the space bar and get to the next sentence. Drink some water, feel how cold it is in your warm body. Dab a finger in the rich chocolate spread you bought instead of Nutella -- which had the import tax. Maybe read Haaretz. No, don't read Haaretz.

Pretend the sights around you are actually teaching you something. Egyptian border is a mile away, that's inherently interesting. How many cars go through every day? What kind of security is there? Isn't it strange to even think about Egypt?  

Today, a camel came into your life. That was weird, huh? Just waltzed in with her cartoonishly large eyelashes and let you sit on her like it was nbd. She was cool with being your slow-moving car for 10 minutes. She had to scratch herself because the flies LOVE camel skin, so it kind of felt like driving a car during an earthquake, but still. Range Rovers can't scale mountains the way a camel can.  

Then you sat in a bedouin tent and drank a Coke. Dabbed a warm floppy pita in a bowl of zatar and olive oil. Tried to make small talk with a man wearing a turban, but he was busy playing with his iPhone 5. The waiter was shy, maybe gay? You stared at the oriental rugs on the walls, trying to not be distracted by the sounds of traffic. The store was half-indoors, half roof-less. Just you, a couch, a road, some pita and a coke. 

The headache is back. The heartburn will come. The coughing has started. The allergies will strike. But right now it's peaceful anyway. Jordan's still shimmering. The vast expanse of Saudi Arabia is barely out of your field of vision. Warm air from the Sinai is here. If you know what's good for you, you'll breathe it. 

Monday, March 4, 2013

5 Things You Instantly Miss About Berlin The Moment You Leave

Try to go somewhere else and not miss these things...

5. The Nightlife



In Berlin, what you do at night is almost always more exciting than what you do during the day. Maybe all you did today was buy a brötchen with cheese and download some new tracks you found on Pitchfork. Ho hum. But at night, you're suddenly in a new club you've never been to before, talking to a performance artist from Majorca and her ballet-dancing Finnish friend who just arrived last night and who wants to stay out until dawn. Are you going to turn them down? Of course not! So you're up until 6am dancing in a warehouse together. That's an "average" night out if you really commit yourself. 

However, in most other cities, an average night out involves paying a massive coverage charge so that you can listen to sub par remixes of the latest Britney Spears song, sip an $8 sugary cocktail and watch lots of obnoxious people you've seen before attempting to hit on one another. You need a back-up friend at all times just so you have someone to laugh with about how shitty and stupid everything is. It's not transcendent, you don't learn about a new culture and you're probably back home before the reruns of the nightly news.

4. The Anti-Consumerism



I'm not saying Berlin is some Soviet backwater, but the advertising is less pervasive here than in most other places I've lived. Rarely am I walking around the city feeling like I need to buy something ASAP so I can feel better about myself. Most of the ads I see on the U-Bahn or on billboards around the city are for things like "Learning English" or "Building a new kitchen" or aren't really ads at all but rather public service announcements about diversity or how to treat people who are living with HIV. German TV is so bad that I never watch it, but when I do the ads are usually for beer.  Compare this to the States and it's like two distinctly different planets. Whenever I go home, I'm suddenly like "maaaaaybe I need a smartphone that can work underwater", and "what's with these at-home soda makers?" and "Wait, JC Penny has cute clothes for dudes all of a sudden? FUCK I'M POOR."

The worst offender, however, isn't the States; It's London. Never have I ever encountered so many florid descriptions of average things. A tuna sandwich at a grocery store in London is a free-range whole chunk albacore sandwich on watercress salad wrapped in whole-grain sweet oat bread. Then there's a little poem on the back about how happy it will make you feel about life. 

The constant talk about money, the desire to have more of it, and the feeling that you're not going to really be happy until you can buy a blahblahblah is what makes me want to fly home to Berlin after just a few days in most other places.

Berlin is so anti-capitalistic that Levi's made their anarchistic ads there -- even filming protest scenes from the May Day demos in Kreuzberg to show off how youthful and carefree their brand is. Everything comes full-circle. Lovely, ain't it?

3. The People


Berliners = greatest smorgasbord of laid-back individualists I've ever encountered. Okay so they're not all super motivated all the time and it can sometimes feel like none of your lives are really going anywhere, but you're learning so much about other people that you just gotta shut up and enjoy the ride. Who knew you would fall in love with a gaggle of Swedish students, a Dutch party promoter, a Finnish actress and a cackling Ukranian? Because there's no real dominant culture to fit into, people tend to stay true to who they are, which makes the diversity of personalities all the more striking.  On the downside, some people are flaky and a few get lost in the party scene forever.

2. The Public Transportation



I used to spend more than an hour and a half on public transportation every day in Berlin, shuttling back and forth between job and apartment. Thing is, I didn't mind it. The train was almost always on time, the seat cradled my bum and people were usually quiet enough so that I could read something engrossing on my Kindle without interruption. An hour long movable office space? Don't mind if I do! I'm not even counting the number of lines which criss-cross the city, taking you to every single place you could ever want to go at almost any hour of the day. Without public transport, Berlin would cease to function because, let's face it, most us are too poor to buy a car.

Even in other cities with excellent transportation systems, it's still almost impossible to get to some obscure address at 2am on a Tuesday. I laugh at you, MTA. BART can eat my butt. Seattle's Sound Transit? Don't be outlandish...you can take me to the airport, Nordstrom and Columbia City. 

Being able to get almost everywhere at any given moment means you can never really turn down a Facebook invite because the event is too far away. In this way, Berlin is like a good mother, forcing you to socialize with people you don't know so you can become a better human. 


1. Galleries, Museums, Concerts, Film Festivals, Etc., Etc., Etc..




On any given year, Berlin receives close to a billion dollars in arts subsidies from the German government. 400 million goes to the Berlinale and Museum Island, 100 million goes to Berlin's three opera houses, 100 million to the state theaters,100 million to independent arts organizations and 120 million is doled out by the districts of the city to individual artistic initiatives. This is an insane amount of money, and you can feel it everywhere you go in the city. There's nothing BUT art. Because there's a significant amount of money to go around, artists aren't fighting with each other over who gets that one public art grant. You meet more working artists than you've ever met in your life. Musicians, painters, actors, directors, dancers, performance artists, whatever. Drizzly outside? Go to a museum! Need a break from your own life? Watch some mesmerizing modern dance. Going stir crazy? Spend all weekend at art markets.

I know I've missed a whole bunch of things, so let me know...what do YOU miss the most when you leave Berlin?

Photo credits:
Kater Holzig -- www.die-unschuld-in-person.blogspot.com
screaming partygoers -- www.berlin-artparasites.com
BVG tram -- www.wikipedia.org
Brandenburger Tor with Metropolis film -- NYTimes.com